"LOSING SUCKS AND MEDIOCRITY IS UNACCEPTABLE." THIS IS KAINOA MCGEE'S
PHILOSOPHY ON LIFE.
Kainoa Kalama McGee is an individual - to put it mildly. He is the
only person that has made the transition from a respected professional bodyboarder to a professional
surfer. The most impressive part: he became a world-class surfer in just a couple of years. The
boys at Pipe claim him as their own, whether they are wearing Viper fins or riding thrusters.
If you
saw this Honolulu local's 6'2", 210-pound frame on the street, sporting basketball shorts, a wife
beater and his signature "mo" cut (short for Mohawk or mojo, according to Kainoa), you would
probably peg him as a pro fighter or a basketball player. Kainoa has been competing in bodyboarding
since 1981. He was top-ranked throughout the 90s and one of the best drop-knee guys in the
world (the first to ever drop-knee Pipe in the barrel without grabbing rail.)
The Kaimuki grad has
been surfing for five years to date, first hopping on a shortboard in 2001. Only five months into
surfing, he entered an amateur event at Ala Moana Bowls and placed fifth. The following winter,
Kainoa stunned nay-sayers and fans alike when he entered the Hansen's Energy Pro at Pipeline and
made the semi-finals, which also made him the first pro bodyboarder to crossover to competitive
surfing.
The next two years McGee made the quarters and semi-finals again at Pipe, and was
embraced by the surfing world as an extraordinary Pipe Charger, both prone and erect. Perhaps it
was a life-changing event in December of 1999 that made Kainoa decide to go outside his comfort
zone. Kainoa contracted viral encephalitis, (a serious illness that swells the brain to the point
where it hits the cranium.) The swelling induced a grand mal seizure because of the excruciating
pain and shut down McGee's body. The freak illness put Kainoa in a coma for three days and
almost took his life...
Of Hawaiian, Chinese, German and Irish descent, Kainoa's powerful demeanor is part beast, part teddy bear. He is as aggressive as he is
charismatic, one of those guys that you want next to you walking down a dark alley but also someone
you can always count on to make you laugh. This complexity is also what makes people
intrigued or intimidated - or both. Kainoa is ever-evolving, but one thing is concrete: he has the
best of both worlds at his fingertips.
written by: Tiff Hervey, Editor of Freesurf Magazine